I drive into the port of Philadelphia and before me, towering above the other ships along a wharf lined with freighters, is the elegant prow of the SS United States. This is the unlikely home of what was once the most magnificent steamship in the world and the ultimate symbol of traveling in grand style. The United States made 400 trans-Atlantic crossings, carrying tens of thousands of passengers to Europe and back, including Hollywood stars and kings and queens. But, unlike the ill-fated Titanic, almost nobody remembers the United States except those who traveled on it. Yet it was more luxurious, better, bigger than any other ship — so big that if you put the Chrysler building flat on its deck, you could walk around it.